Straight to the sky

Namcha Barwa, at 7600m, acts as the eastern anchor of the Himalayas. In Tibetan, it means a spear piercing straight into the sky. And it is just like that, only more than half of that massive spear is hidden behind the cloud.

We stand on the wooden platform. I feel the altitude, but that doesn't really give me too much discomfort. Small patches of land show a few houses in the valley. Those who live there have a view worth millions. Do they appreciate that? Or that is so normal to them they don't really see? Or, they consider themselves part of that scenery?

The bumpy dirt road passes through traditional villages. At the foothill village, I'm surprised once again to see all the restaurants are owned by those from SiChuan province. New construction is underway for new buildings. We try to negociate a deal for the night but that doesn't go well. Plus, I really want to let Tibetans get some business. So we move on.

Smaller villages seem empty. We knock on a few doors, nobody.

One village down, we can hear some chanting sound. That is a group of pilgrims making their stop at a local temple, or a house with a bigger space for that matters. My driver, SN, asks the lama if we can film them, he agrees, but refuses to talk on the camera. It is too dangerous, I can understand.

Inside the poorly lid house, wide-eyed children looked at us with great curiosity. I let J do the camera-work, and I try to have a conversation with the lama through SN's translation. He must have heard and known so many stories of their fellow lamas got sent to jail because of speaking with westerns, he says a few words. I get the point.

Chantings ebb and flow. Flames from yak-oil lantern wave. The lama turns a page over, another round of chanting and praying begins.

J takes care of all the details. He has good eyes for imagery.

A donkey stands outside the door. It seems captivated by the sound inside.

A rush of feeling pours in my heart. Why I am here? What is my purpose of coming here? Do they really need to talk to me? What can I bring them? Is listening all I can give them? I want to show their lifes, but is that going to help them?

"All I wanted to say is in the chant." The lama tells SN, SN to me.

The after-burn of the yak-oil makes me queasy. Light-headed, I walk outside.

Namcha Barwa, now finally shakes off the clouds around it, shoots straight into the bright blue sky.